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Bebelplatz in Berlin, the heart of the Forum Fridericianum: the State Opera and the green dome of St Hedwig’s Cathedral across the paved square

Berlin Experiences/Featured Experiences

Forum Fridericianum: Visit Bebelplatz and the Book-Burning Memorial

The centre of Enlightenment-era Berlin and site of the infamous ‘Nazi book burning’.

The short answer

The Forum Fridericianum is the square Frederick the Great laid out on Unter den Linden in Berlin-Mitte in the 1740s, today called Bebelplatz, framed by the State Opera, St Hedwig’s Cathedral, the Old Library and Humboldt University. On 10 May 1933 Nazi students burned some 20,000 books here. Micha Ullman’s memorial marks the spot: an empty underground library you look into through a glass panel in the paving. The square is public, free and open at all hours. Allow 20–30 minutes, or longer if you go inside St Hedwig’s, which is also free.

Where
Bebelplatz, off Unter den Linden, 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Open
Always: a public square (St Hedwig’s from 11:00, Sundays from 13:00)
Admission
Free, including the memorial and St Hedwig’s
Time needed
20–45 minutes
Nearest station
U5 Museumsinsel, 4 minutes on foot
Step-free
Yes, but on granite paving; ramp and lift at St Hedwig’s

The story · by Matt Robinson

When Prussian king, Frederick II (popularly known as Frederick the Great), ascended to the throne in 1740, he proclaimed that every royal capital must have an opera house to express the cultural side of the monarchy – and must also have a royal library to represent the sophisticated, educated side of any enlightened kingdom.

Standing in the middle of what is now known as Bebelplatz, one is immediately absorbed into this Forum Fridericianum (Frederick’s Forum), where the Prussian king’s cultural vision came to life through four architecturally impressive buildings that radiate the enlightenment-era doctrine of his once esteemed royal city.

In order of construction: the Staatsoper (State Opera House – originally called the Hofoper), Prinz-Heinrich Palais (now Humboldt University), St. Hedwigs-Kathedrale (St Hedwig’s Cathedral), and the Königliche Bibliothek (King’s Library) – now the Law Faculty for Humboldt University.

10 May 1933

Regrettably, it was also here in 1933, following the Nazi seizure of power, that members of the National Socialist German Students’ League publicly condemned the works of various authors considered ‘Un-German’ to an immense funeral pyre. As part of a co-ordinated ritual cleansing – then known as the ‘Day of Action Against the Un-Germanic Spirit’ – that would take place in more than twenty university towns across the country.

On 10th May 1933, some 40,000 people gathered by the Berlin State Opera, with Nazi Propaganda Minister Joseph Goebbels addressing the crowd, as students called out their ‘fire oaths’ during this mass immolation: “No to decadence and moral corruption! Yes to decency and morality in family and state!”

This event is commemorated today by a compelling and poignant memorial, in the centre of the square, titled ‘The Empty Library’ – designed by Israeli artist, Micha Ullman. A vast subterranean collection of shelves, visible through a glass portal allowing visitors to gaze into this vacant space – said to contain enough room for the estimated 20,000 books incinerated on this square in 1933.

Micha Ullman’s book-burning memorial on Bebelplatz in Berlin: the glass panel in the paving in front of the State Opera
The memorial’s glass panel, in front of the State Opera.

At the threat of focusing too intently on the memorial and the grotesque event it commemorates, one must take a moment to step back and understand the historic backdrop and significance of this square. And thus what implication this event taking place here had.

A philosopher king’s square

On taking the throne in 1740, Frederick the Great sought to establish his legacy as a ‘philosopher king’. Resolving to ensure that not only would his Kingdom of Prussia be regarded as a great power on the battlefield, but would also be known for its cultural achievements. This plaza is definitively the realisation of the latter, and the enlightenment values that Frederick was enamoured with – not only in its architectural elegance but also in what these structures represent.

Christian Daniel Rauch’s equestrian statue of Frederick the Great on Unter den Linden in Berlin, beside the Forum Fridericianum
Frederick the Great on Unter den Linden, at the edge of his forum.

Constructed on the east side of this square during Frederick’s reign, the State Opera House (Staatsoper) (1741-1743) was the first freestanding theatre structure to be built in Germany and considered to be one of the most modern works of its kind. Its music was directed by the king’s Kapellmeister, Carl Heinrich Graun, while Frederick’s flute teacher, Johann Joachim Quantz, led the king’s private concerts.

The university

On the north side of the square, across the historic Unter den Linden boulevard, is the Humboldt University. Initially built as a palace for Frederick’s younger brother, Prince Heinrich, its use after the prince’s death falls in line with the Prussian king’s vision of high culture and the importance of education. It became the home of Berlin’s first university in the century after Frederick’s death. Here Wilhelm von Humboldt, brother of the explorer Alexander, was tasked with creating a world class institution after the city was conquered by Napoleon’s forces in 1806.

Channeling the enlightenment-era ideas of Frederick the Great, the brothers developed a model of education that would soon spread to other universities across the world. Veering away from the classical style of learning through repetition and strict adherence to subject matter only considered essential to a student’s official direction – the university would seek to imbue students with a sense of endless curiosity and the pursuit of knowledge for its own sake.

Thus, not only were the students responsible for the book burning in 1933 acting against Frederick the Great’s legacy, but directly shunning the Humboldtian concept of education. Wretchedly replacing worldly sophistication with regimental orthodoxy. The kind that would prove to tolerate no opposition or deviation from its dogmatic absolutism.

St Hedwig’s and the Royal Library

On the southeastern corner of the square, the baroque-styled St. Hedwig’s Cathedral (1747-1773) stands as a symbol of tolerance to Catholicism in the very heart of a predominantly Protestant royal capital. Named after the patron saint of Silesia, it would be the first Catholic church to be built in Berlin after the Reformation.

The columned portico of St Hedwig’s Cathedral on Bebelplatz in Berlin, with the TV Tower in the distance
St Hedwig’s Cathedral, modelled on the Pantheon in Rome.

It was here, following the Reichskristallnacht (Night of Broken Glass) attacks of 1938, that provost Bernhard Lichtenberg publicly led prayers for persecuted Jews, later speaking out against the forced euthanasia ‘T4 program’ introduced by the Nazis in 1939. Lichtenberg would pay for his daily dissent with his life four years later. His remains are enshrined in the crypt of this cathedral. Continuing to the west side of the square and straight across from the State Opera House, one finds the Royal Library – another impressively designed baroque structure that was intended to house the sophisticated King’s book collections.

“Merely a prelude”

If this impressive ensemble of grand buildings was intended to be a focal point of 18th century Prussian prestige and culture in the heart of the kingdom’s capital, it’s more than astonishing today that the direction shifted so dramatically and now this impressive, tolerant and curious past is overshadowed by one of the most despicable public events to have taken place during the years of the ‘Third Reich’.

The book burning of 10th May 1933 was an ugly demonstration of the suffocating reality of the Gleichschaltung process (Nazification) undertaken by the National Socialist regime after seizing power.

Performed in an area hailed as the heart of 18th century Prussian sophistication, intellectualism and tolerance, to usher in the Nazi party’s own ideas of constricting German culture – along with all aspects of society – into an agonizing straitjacket. Setting the stage for the colonial and genocidal actions that now define the excesses of that regime.

In the words of German author, Heinrich Heine, now displayed publicly in the centre of this square: “That was merely a prelude; where one burns books, eventually one also burns people.”

The Forum Fridericianum in detail

Etching of the Royal Opera House on the Forum Fridericianum in Berlin in 1773, with the dome of St Hedwig’s Church on the left
The Royal Opera House in 1773, with St Hedwig’s on the left. The Royal Library was not yet built. Photo: Johann Georg Rosenberg / Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Frederick’s forum, building by building

Frederick II became king of Prussia in 1740, and building on his opera house began the following July. His friend Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff designed it, and the Royal Court Opera opened on 7 December 1742 with Carl Heinrich Graun’s Cleopatra e Cesare, ten months before the building was finished. Across Unter den Linden, Prince Heinrich’s palace went up in 1748–53; after his death it became the home of Berlin’s new university in 1810.

St Hedwig’s foundation stone was laid in July 1747 on land Frederick gave to Berlin’s Catholics. Knobelsdorff drew the plans from sketches by the king, who wanted a church like the Pantheon in Rome, and it was consecrated on 1 November 1773. Last came the Royal Library (1775–80): Georg Christian Unger had to use a design Joseph Emanuel Fischer von Erlach had drawn fifty years earlier for the Hofburg in Vienna. Berliners nicknamed its curved front the ‘Kommode’, the chest of drawers.

The Nazi book burning on the Opernplatz, now Bebelplatz, in Berlin on 10 May 1933: a crowd giving the Nazi salute around the burning pile of books
The fire on the Opernplatz, the night of 10 May 1933. Photo: Bundesarchiv, Bild 102-14597 / Pahl, Georg / CC-BY-SA 3.0

The night of 10 May 1933

The book burning was organised by the German Student Union, not by the government. In April 1933 it announced an ‘action against the un-German spirit’: students drew up blacklists and cleared libraries and bookshops of works by Jewish, Marxist, pacifist and other banned writers. On the night of 10 May, a torchlit procession reached the Opernplatz, as the square was then called, and students threw the books onto a pyre in the middle of the square, chanting ‘fire oaths’ that named each author.

About 40,000 people watched in the rain as some 20,000 books burned, among them works by Heinrich Mann, Erich Kästner, Sigmund Freud and Karl Marx. Propaganda Minister Joseph Goebbels arrived around midnight and told the crowd that ‘the age of excessive Jewish intellectualism is now over’. Similar fires burned that night in university towns across Germany.

Bebelplatz in East Berlin in 1979, used as a car park, with the State Opera, St Hedwig’s Cathedral and the Old Library
Bebelplatz as a car park in 1979, with the State Opera, St Hedwig’s and, far right, the Old Library. Photo: Bundesarchiv, Bild 183-U1206-024 / Zimmermann, Peter / CC-BY-SA 3.0

From car park to memorial

The war gutted every building on the square. The opera was bombed in April 1941, rebuilt within a year, burned out again in 1945 and reopened only in 1955. St Hedwig’s burned out on 1 March 1943 and was given a new concrete dome; the library was rebuilt in 1963–69. In East Berlin the square was renamed after August Bebel on 31 August 1947, and for most of the GDR years it served as a car park.

A plaque put up in 1980 at the suggestion of the writer Heinz Knobloch was the first marker of the book burning. After a competition held by the Berlin Senate, Micha Ullman’s Bibliothek was unveiled on 20 March 1995. Ullman regards the whole empty square as part of his work, and he protested when an underground car park was dug beneath it; it opened in December 2004. He and other artists have since criticised fashion shows and events staged around the memorial.

Plan your visit

Visiting the Forum Fridericianum

Map of the streets around the Forum Fridericianum, with a pin on the siteOpen in Google Maps

Bebelplatz, 10117 Berlin · The square and memorial are open 24 hours, every day. St Hedwig’s Cathedral: Monday–Thursday and Saturday 11:00–18:00, Friday 11:00–20:00, Sunday 13:00–18:00 (the crypt closes 15 minutes earlier; hours can vary on holidays).

Getting there

  • U5Museumsinsel280 m · 4 min

    Take the Unter den Linden exit and walk west past the Prinzessinnenpalais; the square opens up behind the State Opera.

  • U5U6Unter den Linden350 m · 5 min

    Walk east along the south side of Unter den Linden; the square is on your right just after the Altes Palais.

  • Bus 100Bus 300Staatsoper200 m · 3 min

    Both routes run along Unter den Linden between Alexanderplatz and the Tiergarten and stop outside the opera.

What you’ll see

  • Micha Ullman’s memorial <em>Bibliothek</em> (1995) in the middle of the square: a glass panel in the paving over a white underground room of empty shelves, with space for about 20,000 books, and two bronze plaques, one with Heinrich Heine’s line about burning books and burning people.
  • The four buildings of Frederick’s forum: the State Opera on the east side, St Hedwig’s Cathedral in the south-east corner, the curved Old Library (the ‘Kommode’, now Humboldt University’s law faculty) on the west, and across Unter den Linden the university’s main building, once Prince Heinrich’s palace.
  • Inside St Hedwig’s, which reopened in November 2024 after six years of rebuilding: a bright, round interior with the altar at its centre, and in the crypt the grave of Bernhard Lichtenberg, the provost who prayed in public for persecuted Jews.

Tips from a guide

  • Glare on the glass can hide the room below: stand so your shadow falls on the panel, or come back after dark, when the lit shelves show up clearly.
  • Read the second bronze plaque before you look down: it explains what happened on this spot, and the Heine quote makes more sense with it.
  • Pair it with the Neue Wache (3 minutes away) the second-hand book stalls that often set up outside the university across Unter den Linden.

Accessibility

The square is level but paved in large granite slabs with small setts between them, which can be bumpy for wheelchairs and buggies. The memorial is set flush into the paving, so everyone looks down into it from the same level. St Hedwig’s has a ramp on the left side of the building, a handrail on the steps to the right and a lift to the crypt; there are no public toilets. Check the BVG website for lift status at the U5 stations.

Timeline

From royal forum to book-burning memorial

  1. Jul 1741Building begins on Knobelsdorff’s opera house for Frederick the Great.
  2. 7 Dec 1742The Royal Court Opera opens with Graun’s Cleopatra e Cesare.
  3. Jul 1747Foundation stone of St Hedwig’s, Berlin’s first post-Reformation Catholic church.
  4. 1748–53Prince Heinrich’s palace is built on the north side of Unter den Linden.
  5. 1775–80The Royal Library, the ‘Kommode’, closes the west side of the square.
  6. 1810Berlin’s university opens in Prince Heinrich’s former palace.
  7. 10 May 1933Nazi students burn some 20,000 books on the Opernplatz.
  8. 9 Nov 1938Provost Bernhard Lichtenberg begins praying in public for persecuted Jews.
  9. 5 Nov 1943Lichtenberg dies in Hof on his way to Dachau.
  10. 31 Aug 1947The square is renamed after the Social Democrat August Bebel.
  11. 20 Mar 1995Micha Ullman’s memorial Bibliothek is unveiled.
  12. 24 Nov 2024St Hedwig’s reopens after six years of renovation.

See it with a historian

Tours that stop at the Forum Fridericianum

On your own you see four fine buildings and a pane of glass; a guide links Frederick’s Enlightenment, the night of 10 May 1933 and the empty library under your feet.

Half a day on foot through historic Mitte, with time on Frederick’s square.

The Berlin Explorer Tour
Half Day4 Hours

The Berlin Explorer Tour

Private half-day walking tour of historic Mitte for up to 10 people. Starts at your hotel or anywhere in the centre.

€500up to 10
View Tour

The Third Reich in Berlin, from the seizure of power to the book burning and beyond.

The Capital Of Tyranny Tour - Berlin Experiences
Full Day6 Hours

The Capital Of Tyranny

Private 6-hour van tour of Hitler's Berlin and the Third Reich for up to 6 people. Starts at your hotel or anywhere in the city.

€1,000up to 6
View Tour

A full day across Berlin’s history, from Prussian Berlin to the fall of the Wall.

The Berlin History Tour
Full Day6 Hours

The Berlin History Tour

Private 6-hour van tour of Berlin's whole history in one day for up to 6 people. Starts at your hotel or anywhere in the city.

€1,000up to 6
View Tour

Questions visitors ask

Frequently asked questions

What is the Forum Fridericianum?

The ensemble Frederick the Great built around today’s Bebelplatz on Unter den Linden from 1741: the State Opera, St Hedwig’s Cathedral, the Royal Library and Prince Heinrich’s palace, now Humboldt University. It was meant to show the cultured, enlightened side of his monarchy.

What happened at Bebelplatz in 1933?

On the night of 10 May 1933, Nazi students burned some 20,000 books by Jewish, left-wing, pacifist and other banned authors here, watched by about 40,000 people. Propaganda Minister Joseph Goebbels spoke to the crowd around midnight.

Where is the book-burning memorial in Berlin?

In the middle of Bebelplatz, between the State Opera and the Old Library, just south of Unter den Linden. Look for a square glass panel set into the paving, with two bronze plaques beside it.

What does the empty library memorial show?

Micha Ullman’s <em>Bibliothek</em>, unveiled in 1995, is a sealed white room beneath the square lined with empty shelves, with space for about 20,000 books, the number burned here. You can only look into it from above, through the glass.

Is Bebelplatz free to visit, and is it open at night?

Yes to both. It is a public square, free and open at all hours, and the memorial can be seen at any time. St Hedwig’s Cathedral is also free, but keeps daytime visiting hours.

Can you go inside St Hedwig’s Cathedral?

Yes, free of charge: Monday to Thursday and Saturday 11:00–18:00, Friday 11:00–20:00 and Sunday 13:00–18:00. It reopened on 24 November 2024 after renovation, and Bernhard Lichtenberg’s grave is in the crypt.

Why is it called Bebelplatz?

In 1947 the square was renamed after August Bebel (1840–1913), a founder of the German Social Democratic movement. Before that it was the Opernplatz, and from 1910 officially Kaiser-Franz-Joseph-Platz.

Is the Forum Fridericianum the same as the Fridericianum in Kassel?

No. The Fridericianum in Kassel is an 18th-century museum building and the main venue of the documenta exhibition. Berlin’s Forum Fridericianum is a square named after Frederick the Great of Prussia.

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