Each year more than 17 million of these moveable feasts are sold throughout Germany – in Berlin alone there are over 1,000 eateries dishing out Döners to the city’s 3.7 million residents, and the millions more visiting tourists.
Officially, the Döner Kebab even outsells what is often considered the city’s most famous snack, the Currywurst. Making this hefty shaved elephant leg sandwich Berlin’s fast food snack of choice and an undeniable staple of the German diet.
In-fact, the record for the largest Döner Kebab in the world was set in Berlin, back in 2017 – weighing in at a heartbreaking 423kg.
Despite – or perhaps because of – its obvious popularity, the origin of the humble Döner has been much disputed.
Was it really born out of the demand in 1970s West Berlin for a cheap portable eat, as is often speculated; or does its date back even further into the distant past of Ottoman Turkey?
–
The Gastarbeiter legend & the Doner Kebab
When Turkish-German immigrant Kadir Nurman died in 2013, news outlets worldwide published obituaries for the man it would appear had single handedly transformed street food culture in Germany.
But to ask most Berliners – the name would seem entirely unfamiliar. Not so, say, for Herta Heuwer – the woman credited as having invented the Currywurst in Berlin back in 1949. Many older Berliners at least – both West and East – would be well acquainted with her name.
So what of the King of Kebab?
It turns out Herr Nurmann is not the only person to have claimed to have invented the Döner Kebab. Not even the only Turkish-German immigrant to have done so. Nor the only one in Berlin, for that matter.
In the 1960s, thousands of Turkish guest workers (Gastarbeiter) made their way to West Germany to work, following the waves of Italian, Spanish, and Greek workers who had preceded them. The economic boom period of the 1950s, the so-called Wirtschaftswunder, had led to labour shortages – made more acute by the dramatic reduction of East German workers in 1961 (following the construction of the Berlin Wall).
Despite this shortage, the West German government, in particular Minister of Labour and Social Affairs Theodor Blank, was initially highly reluctant to take workers from Turkey; objecting that the culture gap was too large. It would take intervention from the United States, eager to further align Turkey with the West during the Cold War era, to convince the West German government to sign a bilateral agreement on October 30th 1961.
Soon Turkish citizens would become the largest group of guest workers in West Germany. Although as the country’s economic fortunes changed in the early 1960s, a large number of these were left seeking alternative forms of employment, leading many into that age-old immigrant honey pot – hospitality.
In the process, gifting the country one of its most recognisable icons of cultural integration – the Döner.
Three of these Turkish workers would have their names intrinsically linked with the introduction of the Döner Kebab. The first being Kadir Nurman – recognised in 2011 by the Association of Turkish Döner Manufacturers with a lifetime achievement award and the man most often credited with inventing the Döner Kebab in Berlin.
Nurman arrived in Germany in 1960, first in Stuttgart, before moving to West Berlin aged 32 in 1966. Six years later he established a small eatery (Imbiss) at the Zoologischer Garten train station – correctly anticipating that the working class people in the area would be interested in buying a kebab-to-go. At the time the widespread perception of Kebab was that of grilled skewered meat, served on a plate with rice. What Nurman claims to have offered that was different, was serving it in a form that customers could carry away with them.
Nurman’s Imbiss is no longer there, nor did he patent his creation – a process that would be rather problematic in Germany anyway (where patenting food and recipes is not as easy as simply trademarking a name). But the legend of his resourcefulness and imagination lives on; with it the questions of the accuracy of the claim.
Two other Turkish immigrants have similarly thrown their hats in the ring regarding this creation story. One, Mehmet Aygün, now owns eight restaurants (Hasir) across the city – as well as the well-known Titanic hotel chain in Turkey and Germany. Rumour has it Aygün started working at his parents Turkish restaurant at the age of 16, where he claims to have introduced the Döner Kebab in its current popular form in March 1971. Although elsewhere in press accounts, Aygün is reported to have started working in the restaurant only later in 1974 to support his studies – meaning that his claim as purveyor of the first Döner is brought greatly into question.
The third possible pretender to the throne – Nevzat Salim (also a Turkish Gastarbeiter) – opened a snack stand in the south-west German city of Reutlingen – near Stuttgart – back in 1969. Where he claims he introduced the Döner Kebab, while working alongside his son. If true, that would predate Nurman at Zoo Station by three years. Could it be more than coincidence that both Nurmann and Salim settled in the south west german state of Baden Wurttemberg when they first arrived in the country (with Nurman choosing to move to Berlin)?
As with any culinary creation, sourcing its actual origin is always problematic – like most things, food and recipes evolve. Rather than appear in a poof of meat flavoured smoke. Pinpointing the origin of any recipe is extremely problematic considering the distribution of similar dishes throughout the world, the evolution of techniques over time, and the melting pot movement of migrants that have cross-pollinated cuisine.
–
What Is In A Name?
It should be painfully obvious to anyone who has eaten their way through the culinary landscape that the concept of the Kebab itself did not originate in Berlin.
From the Greek form of Gyros, to the Middle Eastern Shawarma, and tacos al pastor in Mexico, there are, of course, many different variations on the theme that could also be classified as falling into the rough category of ‘Kebab’. All cooked on a vertical rotisserie and served in sandwich form. All with their own equally problematic questions of inception.
Although the provenance of the Berlin Döner Kebab may be in question; its acceptable form is not. And perhaps this is where we are getting somewhere – the difference is preparation and presentation.
This culinary concoction importantly balances four essential ingredients – meat, sauce, vegetables, and perhaps most significantly…oil. The Berlin Döner Kebab should consist of thinly sliced meat (veal or beef) cut from a vertical rotating grill, served in a lightly toasted triangular-shaped bread alongside diced lettuce; cabbage; onion; chopped tomato; and cucumber – with a selection of sauces (garlic, chilli, and herb). Variations exist throughout the city, where the dish is served in a pita bread (like a greek gyros), or wrapped in a lavash or yufka flatbread (called a Dürüm Döner in this form).
Rather than struggle with the Döner Kebab as a magical gift at the masterful hands of a god-like inventor perhaps it better to consider how it may have evolved into its final form.
A little culinary detective work, please…
Arguably the first and most ancient form of this preparation would be that of the şiş (Shish). Said to originate in Turkey (or possibly Persia?), where soldiers would use their swords to skewer and roast meat over an open fire. It doesn’t take much speculation to assume this, however, was not the first time someone impaled something and cooked it over a fire – hundreds of thousands of years of human history stands in the way of that claim. But it is a good starting point here.
Next comes the Cağ kebabı, a stick of spiced lamb, including tail fat, traced back to the 18th century in the Eastern Turkish province of Erzurum – the distant ancestor of the Döner Kebab, as we now know it – cooked horizontally on an open fire.
Later in the 19th century, in either Kastamonu or Bursa, this would be transformed into the rotating vertical meatsicle. Documented in the earliest known photo a vertical kebab taken in 1855 by the British photographer James Robertson – famous for documenting the Fall of Sevastopol in the Crimean war, the same year.
It wasn’t until the 1940s that the rotating vertical Kebab finally made its way to Istanbul, with Beyti Güler (owner of the Beyti restaurant) credited as making the Kebab a mainstream success there – serving heads of state, high-ranking politicians, and celebrities from around the world. Beyti even boasts of having catered for U.S. President Richard Nixon aboard Air Force One during his first official trip to Europe. Although, Beyti Güler is renowned for introducing a different kind of Kebab than the Döner, that now bears his name – the Beyti Kebab. Like most kebabs in Turkey, served in a Dürüm wrap, but made of lamb fillet wrapped in cutlet fat and served on a plate, chopped, and covered in sauce.
It is important to consider that until the 1970s, the Kebab – in any real form it is now recognised – was far from embraced in western Europe. It could easily be argued that it took the influx of Turkish guest workers to Germany to alter the perception of what was commonly viewed as an alien dish.
The greatest achievement of men like Kadir Nurman, Nevzat Salim, and certainly in the present day Mahmut Aygun (who still owns a kebab shop empire), may more specifically be described as having popularised, rather than invented, something that was already around – in various different forms.
Perhaps the easier question to ask is not whether the Döner Kebab was invented in Berlin – but whether it was popularised here?
There is no doubt that Turkey has a strong claim on the Kebab as a general preparation. But the Döner Kebab as a phenomenon may very well belong to Berlin.
Despite the official recognition of Kadir Nurman as the originator of the Döner Kebab, it certainly is possible that when in 1969, in the small town of Reutlingen, fellow Turkish guest worker Nevzat Salim started slinging kebabs that he got there first. But the audience and the reach would certainly have been much smaller.
That Kadir Nurman opened his snack stall at West Berlin’s busiest station, he would undoubtedly have drawn more attention – and although not having invented the Kebab, per se, managed to popularise the Döner Kebab (in its sandwich form).
Acknowledging this, Kadir is quoted as saying: “Maybe someone else also did it, in some hidden corner, but no one noticed. The kebab became well-known through me.”
Kadir’s case for inventor of the modern Berlin Döner becomes even more tenuous when we consider that back in 1972 he admits his version consisted of bread, meat, and a little greenery. And not the commonly accepted form of the Berlin Döner seen today – suggesting it evolved even further from whatever appeared at that time.
One final point is worth considering: the claim that either Kadir, or Nevzat Salim, or perhaps even Mehmet Aygün, may have been the first to put the traditional Turkish Kebab in bread – and serve it to customers.
Has it ever been claimed that the Earl of Sandwich, who since the 18th century has leant his name to anything stuck between bread, could have been responsible for inventing that?
**
Verdict
NO
The Döner Kebab was not invented in Berlin.
Popularised here? Ok.
But there are no participation trophies for that.
***
HISTORICAL ARTICLES
Mythbusting Berlin
Did Frederick The Great Introduce The Potato To Germany? – Mythbusting Berlin
One of the more bizarre claims to fame attributed to the first King of Prussia is that the man who would go down in history known as Frederick the Great introduced the potato to Germany during his reign back in the 1700s. This starchy root vegetable has undoubtedly become a staple part of German cuisine – an essential addition to any plate of Schnitzel, Schweinshaxn, and Königsberger Klopse – however, whether Frederick the Great is
Did Hitler Escape To Argentina In 1945? – Mythbusting Berlin
Although Nazi leader, Adolf Hitler, certainly remains an inescapable figure, could there be any truth to the story of his escape to Argentina in 1945? That the most wanted man on earth could simply vanish, to spend the rest of his life peacefully in South American obscurity captivates imaginations. Yet, despite numerous investigations, this tale persists primarily as myth—fueled by speculation, hearsay, and conspiracy theories.
Did The Nazis Invent Decaf Coffee? – Mythbusting Berlin
Persistent rumors claim that Nazis preferred their coffee anything but pure, leading some to wonder if they might have influenced the development of decaffeinated coffee. Although decaf was already widely available across Europe by the mid-20th century, speculation continues: could the Nazis really have played a role in popularizing—or even discovering—this caffeine-free alternative, or is this simply another caffeinated conspiracy cooked up to sensationalize an ordinary historical detail?
Did The Nazis Invent The Bicycle Reflector? – Mythbusting Berlin
The fruits of wartime ingenuity are plenty – so many, in-fact, that it has become somewhat of a worn cliche that as the guns start firing the innovators get to work, often solving problems while providing more problems for the enemy to overcome.The kind of progress that results in the production of newer improved, more lethal weapons, such as to increase the chances of victory.
Did The Spanish Flu Pandemic Help The Nazis Take Power? – Mythbusting Berlin
The devastating Spanish Flu pandemic of 1918-1919 struck amid Germany’s post-war turmoil, compounding social instability, economic hardship, and widespread political disillusionment. Could this catastrophic health crisis have indirectly paved the way for Nazi ascension? While often overshadowed by war and revolution, the pandemic’s profound psychological and societal impacts arguably contributed to the perfect storm, enabling extremist ideologies—including Nazism—to gain popularity and ultimately seize power in a fractured Germany.
Was Adolf Hitler A Drug Addict? – Mythbusting Berlin
Solving the enigma of the ‘Führer’ has become a preoccupation for many, since the arrival of the Austrian-German onto the world stage – although moving beyond the mythology without falling into the trap of prejudically extrapolating on the psychopathography of Hitler or demonising so as to excuse his actions has proven problematic. What to make of the man who became more than the sum of his masks? The painter; the military dilettante, the mass murderer,
Was Currywurst Invented In Berlin? – Mythbusting Berlin
Explore the story behind what many consider Berlin’s most iconic snack—the ever-so-humble Currywurst. Often hailed as an enduring symbol of culinary creativity amid Cold War scarcity, this humble dish has inspired fierce debate about its true origin. But was it genuinely invented here in Berlin, or have proud locals simply adopted and elevated this spicy street-food favorite into legendary status all their own?
Was The Colour Blue Invented In Berlin? – Mythbusting Berlin
Tracing the true history of blue—from ancient Egyptian dyes to the accidental discovery of Prussian Blue in a Berlin lab. We’ll debunk myths about seeing blue, explore colonial indigo plantations, scale mountains with a cyanometer, and trace Van Gogh’s starry skies—all to answer one question: how did Berlin shape our understanding of the world’s rarest color?
Was The Döner Kebab Invented In Berlin? – Mythbusting Berlin
Unlikely icon of immigrant success; fast food symbol of the working class; over-hyped midnight disco eat; or culturally appropriated cuisine? Its influence goes far beyond layers of seasoned meat and fresh vegetables stuffed into pita bread. But does Berlin deserve credit as the Döner Kebab’s true birthplace, or has the city merely refined and popularized a culinary tradition imported from elsewhere?
Was The Fall Of The Berlin Wall An Accident? – Mythbusting Berlin
On a seasonally crisp night in November 1989, one of the most astonishing events of the 20th century occurred. After twenty eight years, three months, and twenty eight days of defining and dividing the German capital, the Berlin Wall ceased to exist – at least in an abstract sense. Although the removal of this symbol of the failure of the East German system would take some time, its purpose – as a border fortification erected
What Happened To Adolf Hitler’s Alligator? – Mythbusting Berlin
It is often said that you can tell a lot about a person by their relationship with animals; that owners often come to look and behave like their pets. Or is it perhaps more that people choose their pets to correspond to their personality? Nazi leader Adolf Hitler’s love of dogs, for example, is well documented but what is there to make of his relationship with reptiles?
What Was Checkpoint Charlie? – Mythbusting Berlin
Checkpoint Charlie remains among Berlin’s most visited historical sites, famed worldwide for its significance during the Cold War. Originally established as a modest border-crossing point, it evolved dramatically over the decades into an international symbol of freedom, espionage, and intrigue. Today, critics and locals often dismiss it as little more than a tourist trap—Berlin’s Disneyland—but how exactly did Checkpoint Charlie get its peculiar name, and what truths hide behind its popularity?
What Was Prussia? – Mythbusting Berlin
Prussia’s legacy is both remarkable and contentious—once a minor duchy, it rose dramatically to shape modern European history. Renowned for military discipline, administrative efficiency, and cultural sophistication, Prussia was instrumental in uniting the German states, laying foundations for a unified Germany. But how did this kingdom, with its roots in Baltic territories, achieve such prominence, and why does its complex history continue to evoke admiration, debate, and occasional discomfort in Germany today?
Who Built The Berlin Wall? – Mythbusting Berlin
One of the most common questions I have encountered from people curious about Berlin, and often so cryptically phrased. Who built the Berlin Wall? A simple five-word query, yet one that can be read one of two ways. More than thirty years since the ‘Fall of the Wall’, the story of its construction continues to baffle many who are mainly familiar with its existence through knowledge of its importance…
Who Really Raised The Soviet Flag On The Reichstag? – Mythbusting Berlin
One iconic photograph symbolizes the Red Army’s victory over Nazi Germany in 1945—the Soviet flag waving triumphantly above Berlin’s battered Reichstag building. Yet behind this enduring image lies controversy, confusion, and political manipulation. Who truly raised the Soviet banner atop the Reichstag? Was it a spontaneous act of heroism or carefully staged Soviet propaganda? Decades later, unraveling the truth reveals surprising layers beneath the mythologized symbol of Soviet triumph.
Who Was Really Responsible For The Reichstag Fire? – Mythbusting Berlin
Various theories have been posited as to who actually set fire to the German parliament in 1933. Was it the opening act in an attempted Communist coup or a calculated false flag operation carried out by elements of the Nazi Party, intended to create the conditions necessary for introducing single-party rule? And what part did the young man from Holland, arrested shirtless inside the building the night of the fire, play in this event?
RELATED TOURS
Our Private Guided Tours
One Hour Experiences
Half Day Experiences
Full Day Experiences
