FEATURED EXPERIENCE NO. 37

Spend The Day At Tempelhof Airport

Former international airport now Berlin’s largest park

Berlin’s recent history is intrinsically linked to the development of modern air transportation and commercial travel. During the Cold War, the city boasted more international airports than anywhere else in the world – albeit at a time when the city was still divided in four sectors. Four airports for the four Cold War powers.

The Berlin Airlift, embarked upon by the Western Allies in 1948 to bypass the Soviet blockade of West Berlin would become the first time in human history that an entire city – well, half at least – was kept alive entirely by air for almost a year.

It was in Berlin that aviation pioneer, Otto Lilienthal, studied and practised his theory of ‘heavier than air’ – establishing the first aeroplane production company in the world. Lilienthal’s research was well known to the Wright brothers, and they credited him as a major inspiration for their decision to pursue manned flight. His flight attempts in the late 19th century are seen as the beginning of human flight.

Berlin was also home to Germany’s first commercial airport at Johannisthal, which opened in 1909, only weeks after the world’s first airfield at Rheims, France.

Lillenthal’s name would eventually be given to the Tegel Airport, built in the French occupation sector of the city in 1948, as a response to the aforementioned Soviet blockade of West Berlin effectively limiting road and rail access to the western sectors of the city.

Arguably the most famous of Berlin’s airports, Tempelhof, would end up in the US Cold War sector – its sprawling cavernous terminal a symbol of the Nazi obsession with all things great and domineering transformed into the most important lifeline to the West of the city during the long months of that blockade.

Although known by many familiar with 20th century European history for its role in the Berlin Airlift, there is more to Tempelhof airport than that acclaimed operation.

The origins of Tempelhof can be traced back to the early 1920s, a period when aviation was still in its nascent stage. The area was initially used as a parade ground by the Prussian military, but with the burgeoning interest in human flight, it was transformed into a makeshift airfield. In 1923, the first official airport was established, marking the beginning of Tempelhof’s journey in aviation history. This was a time of great experimentation and excitement in the world of flight, and Tempelhof quickly became a hub for air travel in Europe.

By the 1930s, Tempelhof was recognized as one of the busiest airports in the world. The Nazi regime, under Adolf Hitler, saw the potential of aviation as a means of showcasing Germany’s technological prowess and power. In 1934, a grandiose plan was set in motion to construct a new terminal building, one that would symbolise the might and modernity of the Third Reich. Designed by architect Ernst Sagebiel, the new terminal was an architectural marvel of its time. When completed in 1941, it was one of the largest buildings in the world, featuring vast halls and state-of-the-art facilities.

However, with the outbreak of the Second World War in 1939, the airport was repurposed for military use, serving as a base for the Luftwaffe. The grand halls that once buzzed with civilian activity were now filled with military personnel and equipment. As an understandable target during Allied bombing raids, the airport and airfield suffered extensive damage – even more so with the arrival of Soviet troops in April 1945.

With Berlin divided in 1945, the airport eventually re-opened for commercial flights, with the American Overseas Airline, part of American Airlines, given the initial rights to fly into Tempelhof. In 1950 Pan Am would take over, with Air France joining the same year, and British European Airways arriving in 1951. From that point, all of West Berlin’s air services would be concentrated at Berlin’s iconic city centre airport.

Commercial air traffic to and from Tempelhof airport peaked in 1971 at just above 5.5m passengers (out of a total of 6.12m passengers for all West Berlin airports during that year). This represented more than 90% of West Berlin’s commercial air traffic, making Tempelhof Germany’s second-largest airport by passenger numbers. With 3.5m passengers, Pan Am accounted for the bulk of this traffic, while almost all of the remaining 2m passengers were travelling with British European Airways.

On September 1st 1975, Pan Am and British Airways moved their entire Berlin operation to the newly built terminal at Tegel Airport. Following Pan Am’s and British Airways’s move to Tegel, commercial operations at Tempelhof ceased, resulting in exclusive use by the US military.

When in 1996, the mayor of reunified Berlin, Eberhard Diepgen, Brandenburg minister-president Manfred Stolpe and the federal transport minister Wissmann established the so-called ‘Consensus resolution’, the future of Tempelhof seemed set. All domestic and international air traffic in Berlin and Brandenburg would be concentrated at one airport outside the city centre: Berlin-Schönefeld International Airport – the former Soviet airport.

Eventually on October 30th 2008, Tempelhof was finally closed to commercial flights – with the final arrivals being from Brussels Airlines and Cirrus Airlines. But what to do with this huge piece of historical real estate?

One year later, Berlin city officials announced that the two huge runways and surrounding outfields at Tempelhof would be opened in May 2010 as a city park. An estimated 60€ million would be spent between 2010 and 2017 to transform the Tempelhofer Feld into Berlin’s largest public park – and the second largest city park in Germany.

The park is a great place to spend an afternoon, with its wide open spaces (although lacking in shade from trees…), walking and cycling paths, and plenty of places to relax and take in the views. The park is also home to a variety of wildlife, including foxes, hares, and various species of birds. Visitors can also enjoy the many events and activities that take place in the park, such as the annual Berlin Marathon fair, the FIA Formula E Championship raced on the airport runways, and the Tempelhofer Sounds music festival.

Berlin’s notorious shortage of housing led to a proposal from the Senate of Berlin in 2013 to open the outer zones of the Tempelhofer Feld for construction of apartment buildings and a new Berlin Central library. In a citywide referendum held one year later, Berliners overwhelmingly voted to preserve the entire space of the park and prohibit any kind of development by law, thus putting an end to both construction and landscaping plans.

Entrance is free with park hours being from 6/7/7.30 a.m., depending on the season, until sunset.